Furniture

SUPPLIES

• MALM Dresser (similar dresser)
• SINNERLIG Dark Cork Table Top

FYI: This post contains a few affiliate links to products we used to make this project. Gray House Studio does receive commissions for sales from these links but at no extra cost to you. We appreciate you supporting this site. Read our privacy and disclosure policy. You can also easily shop our recommended products here.

STEPS

1. First we assembled the MALM dresser as normal per the instructions.

2. We needed the dresser to not only be taller but also to be able to move the table depending on the project so we added casters to the bottom of the piece by screwing blocks of wood to the base of the dresser and attaching casters to those blocks of wood.

3. Since the table will be in our “studio” which is next to our library we decided to bring the industrial style to our work table so we took the same black pipes we used on our shelves to attach the cork table top to the top of the MALM dresser.

By raising up the table top with the pipes, we made the table bar height so we can sit at bar stools while working. Currently, we are just dragging in some from the kitchen but we hope to eventually have designated bar stools for this space.

4. We needed the drawers for storage but didn’t want them to be visible from the entryway so we flipped the dresser around so the back of the dresser is facing the entrance of the room.

5. We obviously didn’t want to leave the back of the dresser exposed so we covered the back of it with distressed wood planks using our weathered wood technique like we did on our reading nook wall and our coffee bar base.

This feature really made the work table feel complete and like an entirely different piece than the IKEA dresser we started with. I just love those worn wood planks. It really ties the piece in with the rest of our home.

6. We ran into a snag because the dresser was a few inches longer than the table top. If it were the other way around it would have been fine but this dilemma left us puzzled. We spent almost an entire day bouncing ideas back and forth on how to make the top balanced with the bottom.

7. We came up with a solution to build a mounting frame to attach two wire baskets to the side of the cork table top. We found two wire baskets at HomeGoods where we can store smaller supplies that we use frequently. They matched our table perfectly.

8. We were able to make a frame out of scrap wood we had from previous projects to hold the two baskets. The boards were cut to be the same thickness as the cork table top. After staining the boards, clamping the frame together around the baskets, and letting the glue dry the baskets were ready to attach to the side of the cork table top.

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SUPPLIES

• 4’x8′ Sheet of 3/4″ Melamine
• Table Saw
• Drill
• Black Silicone Caulk
• Painter’s Tape
• Welded Steel Wire
• Bolt Cutters
• Denatured Alcohol
• Bucket
• Precision Grout by Quikrete
• Large Concrete Mixing Tub
• Paddle Drill Attachment
• Trowel
• Metal Wire Mesh
• Orbital Sander
• Pliers
• Plastic Sheeting

FYI: This post contains a few affiliate links to products we used to make this project. Gray House Studio does receive commissions for sales from these links but at no extra cost to you. We appreciate you supporting this site. Read our privacy and disclosure policy. You can also easily shop our recommended products here.

STEPS

1. First we took a 4’x8′ sheet of 3/4″ melamine board and cut into strips.

The width of each melamine strip should be the same size as the DIY concrete counter top will be thick.

2. Once the strips were cut to the correct length to frame the outside of each slab, we used a drill and drill bit to pilot holes for the screws.

First we used a drill bit slightly larger than the threads of each screw and drilled all the way through each melamine strip.

After drilling through the entire width of the melamine strips, we used a drill bit slightly larger than the head of the screw to drill down about 1/4″ allowing the screw to be countersunk below the surface.

To avoid drilling too deep with the larger drill bit we wrapped painter’s tape around the bit to mark the correct depth.

After drilling all the pilot holes we attached the strips to the surface of a second sheet of melamine with screws.

3. To create a water tight form for the concrete, we used black silicone caulk to fill the seams. We used painter’s tape to mask the surface of the melamine and create a clean caulk line.

4. After smoothing the caulk with our fingers, we removed that tape before the caulk dried to create a smooth finish.

The dark color of the caulk made it easy to see where any caulk is out of place.

5. To create the strongest slab possible we used welded steel wire to reinforce the concrete.

After cutting the wire with a pair of bolt cutters we used denatured alcohol and a rag to wipe off any rust.

6. With the form complete it was finally time to mix the concrete.

We used precision grout by Quikrete to make our counter top.

We started by using the recommended water to concrete ratio but realized after the first batch that we needed to pour slightly more water from a bucket than the bag recommended to provide adequate dry time.

7. We poured half the mix into a large concrete mixing tub and all the water from the bucketbefore using a mixing paddle attached to a drill to blend the concrete together.

Once it blended into a consistent mixture, the rest of the dry mix was added.

8. We mixed two bags of concrete at a time and it definitely takes more than one person to lug that much concrete around.

After pouring the concrete into the form we used a trowel and shovel to spread the concrete out.

9. After the first batch was in the form and smoothed out we added the metal wire mesh. We used an orbital sander to vibrate the mixture to shake any air pockets to the surface to create a smooth finish.

We mixed the second batch of concrete and filled the rest of the form. With the entire form filled we vibrated it once more and covered the two slabs with plastic to allow the concrete to cure as slowly as possible.

10. Once the counter top had time to cure we unscrewed the walls of the form from the base but found that it was difficult to remove the boards.

We were able to remove the boards by attaching screws to the side of each board and pulling on the screws with pliers.

After we had the concrete slab loose, we lifted it up and placed it on top of the coffee bar base we built.

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SUPPLIES

Shop the products we used for this project in one place.

• Lack side table with casters from IKEA
• Paint
• Foam roller
• Sanding Sponge
• Painter’s tape
• Yard Stick
• Drill
• Screwdriver
• RUST-OLEUM Ebony Interior Wood Stain
• Kreg Jig R3 Pocket Hole Jig System

FYI: This post contains a few affiliate links to products we used to make this project. Gray House Studio does receive commissions for sales from these links but at no extra cost to you. We appreciate you supporting this site. Read our privacy and disclosure policy. You can also easily shop our recommended products here.

TUTORIAL VIDEO

FREE PLANS

Download Lack Side Table Base Plans

1. The first thing I did was to use a sanding sponge to sand all sides of the top piece of the side table.

2. Next, I used a foam roller to apply paint to the top.

I used Slow Green from Sherwin Williams. I like the appearance of the light color contrasting with the dark wood.

3. While the top was drying, I assembled the base of the side table.

4. I used a yard stick to mark the shape I wanted to create with the paint.

5. Next, I marked on the base with painter’s tape the areas I intended to paint.

I used two layers of tape to make sure I had plenty of space to catch any stray paint in case my hand got a little shaky.

I then sanded with the sanding sponge again and used a foam roller to paint all the areas above the tape. As soon as the paint was applied, I removed the tape.

6. We bought the Lack IKEA side table with casters but didn’t want to use to the casters because we wanted the side table to sit higher off the ground.

We built our own custom base that was very similar to the nightstand in our bedroom that Brent made.

After Brent cut the pieces of wood to the right dimensions using a table saw, I used a pocket hole jig and a drill to make holes for the screws that hold the base together.

If you are interested in building the base we made, be sure to download the free plans above with all the dimensions and measurements you need.

7. The IKEA Lack side table with casters comes in three colors.

We choose the black/brown finish. We found that the Rust-Oleum ebony stain was a very close match to the color of the table.

I stained the outside of the base and the areas of the inside that would be visible.

8. Once the stain was dry I flipped the table over and flipped the base over and set it on top of the table. Then I took a ruler and measured to make sure the base was centered on the table.

I used the pocket holes I drilled earlier to attach the base to the bottom of the table with screws.

Finally, I flipped the side table back over and attached the top of the table using the hardware that came with it. And just like that my new side table was complete!

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materials + tools

• Coffee Bar Base Woodworking Plans
• Rust-Oleum Spray Paint, Gray Primer
• Rust-Oleum Ultra Cover 2X Spray Paint, Oil Rubbed Bronze
• (2) 4″x4″x8′ Pine Board
• (8) 2″x4″x96″ Pine Board
• (1) 4’x8′ Hardboard Tempered Panel
• (5) 1″x3″x8′ Furring Strip Board
• (6) 1″x4″x8′ Furring Strip Board
• (3) 1″x6″x8′ Pine Board
• 36″x36″ Piece of Sheet Metal
• 2-1/2″ Pocket Screws
• 2″ Wood Screws
• 1/2″ Pan Head Screws
• 1″ Finishing Nails
• 2″ Finishing Nails
• Titebond-3 Ultimate Wood Glue
• Construction Adhesive
• Rust-Oleum Ultimate Wood Stain, Kona
• Table Saw
• Drill
• Nail Gun
• Kreg R3 Jig Pocket Hole Kit With Clamp
• Miter Saw
• Hammer

FYI: This post contains a few affiliate links to products we used to make this project. Gray House Studio does receive commissions for sales from these links but at no extra cost to you. We appreciate you supporting this site. Read our privacy and disclosure policy. You can also easily shop our recommended products here.

project plans

Get our Coffee Bar Base Plans

When you purchase our coffee bar base plans you get a 17 page PDF with a detailed materials list, a cut list, dimensions for each piece, and building instructions. We appreciate your support of Gray House Studio!

steps

1. The legs of the coffee bar are actually made of wood! This trick saved us a lot of money. To make each leg we combined two 2″x4″ boards by screwing them together.

After we got them all assembled, we realized we could have just bought 4x4s. Duh! After we combined the boards together, we ran the boards through our table saw to square them up.

2. To make the legs appear as if they are steel we wrapped each wooden post in sheet metal.

We didn’t have access to the actual tool to bend sheet metal so it was pretty difficult to get it formed into the right shape to cover the wooden post.

We improvised and made our own version of a sheet metal brake out of some scrap wood and a piece of angle iron. By clamping the sheet metal in between the wood and the angle iron, we could bend it around the edge of the angle iron creating the shape we needed. After we wrapped each leg, we secured it to the wood with a drill and screws.

3. Next we prepped the legs for paint and then spray painted a primer on them.

We let the primer sit over night and then the next day we spray painted them with an oil rubbed bronze spray paint.

The legs are held together by two pieces of 2″x4″ lumber and they are secured together with pocket screws.

We used our Kreg Jig pocket hole kit to drill the pocket holes.

4. The support structure for the coffee bar base is made of up 2″x4″s. Most furniture does not use 2″x4″s because they would make the piece super heavy.

But for this project it helped us save money. Plus, I’m not sure if in any capacity you could make a 7 foot bar with a concrete countertop light, so the extra weight wasn’t a concern of ours. This thing is not going anywhere.

5. We thought ahead and knew this thing was going to be massive and impossible to move very far so we built the entire thing (concrete top and all) right in place in the breakfast nook.

After we got the main structure put together, we added vertical supports to add strength for the braces that would support the concrete countertop and to frame out the recessed opening and shelf that would go in the front of the coffee bar.

6. Next up was my favorite part, staining! We used our favorite stain, Rust-Oleum Ultimate Wood Stain in Kona.

We wanted to tie the breakfast nook area into the living room area since it is one big open space so we thought bringing in the weathered wood planks from the wall in the reading nook would be the perfect solution.

7. We ran through our whole process of creating weathered wood by varying the degree we would rough up the pieces to alternate shades and patterns. But this time we did it rapid speed.

We cut, roughed up and stained all the boards for the entire bar in a matter of maybe two hours. It was a whirlwind of staining and in the process I managed to get stain all over myself, including on my face and in my hair. I don’t know how that happens. We laid out all the boards on the ground this time so we could easily create a nice pattern of varying colors and lengths.

8. By the time we finished staining all the boards and they dried, it was already getting late. But we were so passionate about this project that we were in the zone!

We pushed on and started attaching the wood planks to the coffee bar structure. To do this we screwed through the 2″x4″s into the wood slats.

9. We added the planks to the bottom, the back of the recessed area and even the sides between the legs to give the allusion that it was wrapping around the entire bar. I love how the sides turned out.

10. Finally Brent built the front of the hidden storage area that opens on a hinge to a shelf where we can store extra coffee supplies and mugs. We then covered that piece with the weathered wood planks as well.

11. To finish the coffee bar base we added more wood planks to the sides of the recessed area to complete the look. Then we attached our concrete shelf.

Brent installed lights below the counter top and I decorated with these cute bottles that I then filled with coffee beans.

The plants are also from Ikea and add a bit of color to a very neutral and industrial design. I think the shelf is my favorite part of the coffee bar. It adds so much depth and interest and we think it really makes the piece look unique.

To get detailed building instructions for our coffee bar, check out our DIY coffee bar plans.

SUPPLIES

How We Created Our DIY Distressed Mirror Table Top

1. We decided to use some scrap cardboard (old moving box) as our work surface for this messy project. It is thick enough to stop spills from quickly penetrating through to the surface below and cheap enough to recycle/throw away after.

2. The back of mirrors are coated with a layer of paint that protects the mirror finish. To age the mirror we first removed this paint to expose the mirror coating. To do this we liberally coated the surface with paint thinner and let it sit until the paint started to loosen and bubble.

**Brent almost learned an important lesson the hard way when the wind started to pick up and blow the paint stripper. He started the project 3 feet from his relatively new car. The paint stripper we used is unforgiving so we quickly moved somewhere more remote protected from the wind.

3. With gloves on, Brent was able to easily scrape off all the paint with a scrap piece of wood and expose the mirror finish. We learned why old mirrors turn shades of gold when they deteriorate. The back side of the mirror, hidden by paint, was reflective gold instead of silver.

4. With the back side of the mirror clean and dry, Brent put on chemical resistant gloves and loaded the spray bottle with muriatic acid.

NOTE: Always use extreme caution when working with muriatic acid! It can burn you and corrode/destroy a lot of materials. After about 10-20 seconds of sitting on the surface, the areas we sprayed became totally see through. It is easier to spray some areas and then wipe them clean and keep going more until you reach the desired finish.

You can always remove more mirror finish but you can’t put it back.

5. The mirror was now transparent where Brent sprayed the acid.

6. To create a more complex finish, Brent started coating the mirror with an oil-rubbed bronze spray paint and wiped some areas away. We didn’t want the mirror to be gold where it wasn’t silver.

Most antique mirrors we have come seen have had various shades of black, gray, gold and silver. So Brent started with the oil-rubbed bronze and wiped areas clean that helped it have a more authentic look.

7. Once the oil-rubbed bronze had time to dry, Brent coated the entire mirror with gold spray paint. The gold paint is only visible in areas where he wiped away the oil-rubber bronze paint.

8. Finally, Brent coated the back of the mirror with black spray paint to protect the rear of the mirror like the original gray coating. After it dried, he used the existing clips to attach the mirror to the table.

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