Decor

SUPPLIES

• Large Log (we found ours free on Craigslist)
• Sherwin-Williams Waterborne Polyurethane Varnish in Satin Clear
• White Paint
• Chisel
• Mallet
• Yard Stick
• Chainsaw
• Hand Planer
• Electric Sander
• 80 Grit and 120 Grit Sanding Discs
• Paintbrush

FYI: This post contains a few affiliate links to products we used to make this project. Gray House Studio does receive commissions for sales from these links but at no extra cost to you. We appreciate you supporting this site. Read our privacy and disclosure policy. You can also easily shop our recommended products here.

TUTORIAL VIDEO

Tree Stump Side Table STEPS

We let the log sit for several weeks in our garage to dry out before we started working on it.

1. To turn the log into a side table we first needed to remove the bark using a sharp chisel and mallet.

We could see that there was a slight color variation between the bark and the solid wood.

Brent used the chisel to go along the line where the color changed and the bark peeled easily off the trunk.

2. Once all the bark was removed, Brent used a yard stick and a little bit of white paint to mark a line around the base of the trunk to mark where to cut the stump to make it stand straight.

3. Next, he used a chainsaw to cut through the log along the white line he marked in the previous step.

He had to make several passes because the oak was so dense.

4. He used a hand planer to flatten the top of the log.

5. Then he used an electric sander and sanded all the surfaces of the stump with 80 grit sanding disc.

6. He followed up with a 120 grit sanding disc to make it nice and smooth.

7. We really loved the light color of the wood and did not want to change the appearance in any way. We didn’t want the sealer we used to turn the log yellow.

We found the key to avoiding a yellow finish is to not use an oil based sealer. Instead we brushed on a few coats of a waterborne polyurethane varnish in satin clear with a paintbrush which sealed the stump nicely and left it looking true to the original color.

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SUPPLIES

• Tape Measure
• Miter Saw
• (1) 1″x4″x8′ board
• Stud Finder
• Level
• Drill
• Interior Screws
• Wrench + Socket Set
• Soft Mallet
• National Hardware Interior Sliding Door Hardware, Oil Rubbed Bronze
• 10″ Bar Pull
• Pin Punch
• Screwdriver

FYI: This post contains a few affiliate links to products we used to make this project. Gray House Studio does receive commissions for sales from these links but at no extra cost to you. We appreciate you supporting this site. Read our privacy and disclosure policy. You can also easily shop our recommended products here.

STEPS

1. INSTALL HEADER BOARD

1. It is advised NOT to install the track directly into the drywall so we first needed to install a header board above our door opening. The hardware kit does not come with the supplies you will need to install a header board so you will have to get the piece of wood and interior screws separately.

We had a 1×4 that was 8ft. long laying around in our garage so we decided to use that for our header board. The track is 72″ so we needed to make our header board the same length.

We used a tape measure and pencil to measure and mark 72″ on our board and then used our miter saw to cut the board down to 72″, it was as easy as that.

2. As a design preference, we wanted our header board to blend in with the wall and to not be noticeable so we painted it the same color as our wall.

3. To install the header board above the door we used a stud finder to mark where the studs were in the wall.

4. We determined where we needed to place the header board above our door frame so it would appropriately cover the door opening and then using a level, to make sure the board stayed straight, we used our drill to drill interior screws into the wall studs to securely attach our header board to the wall.

We like the fact that our header board blends seamlessly into the wall.

2. INSTALL TRACK

FOR THIS STEP YOU WILL NEED: Track, Spacers, Track Fasteners from the sliding hardware door set, Level, Drill, Wrench + Socket Set

5. We held the track up to the header board and marked in the large hole at the end of the track where we needed to drill. Then we drilled a hole and installed the fasteners and spacer.

6. Next, we marked and drilled the hole at the other end of the track. We set a level on the track to make sure the track stayed straight while we installed the next spacer and fastener.

Finally, we marked, drilled and installed the spacers and fasteners in the center holes which secured the track to the header board.

3. INSTALL HANGERS

FOR THIS STEP YOU WILL NEED: Hangers, Hanger Fasteners from the sliding hardware door set, Pin Punch, Drill, Soft Mallet

7. We used the supplied template to determine where we needed the holes in the door for the hangers.

8. Then we used a pin punch to mark the holes on both ends of the door and then drilled the holes.

9. We removed the pre-installed fasteners from the hangers. Our door is thin so we used the shorter hanger fasteners to attach the hangers to the door.

4. INSTALL BAR PULL

FOR THIS STEP YOU WILL NEED: Bar Pull, Pin Punch, Screwdriver, Soft Mallet

10. To install the handle, we lined up the bar pull where we wanted it on the door and then used a pin punch to mark where the two holes in the handle are. Then we secured the handle to the door using the screws that came with the bar pull and a screwdriver.

5. INSTALL ANTI-JUMP DISCS
FOR THIS STEP YOU WILL NEED: Anti-jump Discs from the sliding hardware door set, Screwdriver

11. To install the anti-jump discs we placed a disc on the top edge of the door on the inside edge of the hanger making sure the hole is facing the front of the door.

6. PLACE DOOR ON TRACK

12. After we installed everything on the door, we placed the door on the track and tested to make sure it slid across the track smoothly.

7. INSTALL DOOR STOPS

FOR THIS STEP YOU WILL NEED: Door Stops from the the sliding hardware door set

13. Next, we installed the door stops on each side of the track and secured them by tightening the set screws.

8. INSTALL HOLE CAPS

FOR THIS STEP YOU WILL NEED: Track Hole Caps from the sliding hardware door set

14. Since we did not need to connect multiple tracks we inserted the hole caps into the small holes at both ends of the tracks.

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SUPPLIES

Shop the products we used for this project in one place.

• (1) 1-IN x 6-IN x 6FT
• (2) 1-IN x 6-IN x 8FT
• (15) MANDEL Plant Pots (from IKEA)
• (15) Artificial Potted Plants
• Yard Stick
• Sherwin-Williams ProClassic® Waterbased Paint in Dovetail SW 7018
• Drill
• Miter Saw
• Nail Gun
• 1-1/2″ Finishing Nails
• Wood Glue
• Clamps

FYI: This post contains a few affiliate links to products we used to make this project. Gray House Studio does receive commissions for sales from these links but at no extra cost to you. We appreciate you supporting this site. Read our privacy and disclosure policy. You can also easily shop our recommended products here.

TUTORIAL VIDEO

STEPS

1. First, Brent measured the 1×6 inch board and using the miter saw cut the piece for the back of the shelves 36 inches long.

2. Next, on the miter saw he cut three smaller boards 5 1/2 inches long each.

These pieces would become the shelves so they needed to be long enough and wide enough for the pots we had to sit on.

3. Before attaching the three smaller boards to the long board, Brent measured and made straight marks 13 inches apart from the bottom with a framing square.

The bottom of each smaller board lined up with these lines he marked.

4. Brent applied wood glue to one side of one of the smaller boards and used clamps to attach it to the bottom of the long board.

5. Then he secured the smaller board to the larger board with a nail gun and 1 ½ inch finishing nails.

6. He repeated the previous two steps to attach the additional two smaller boards to the large board where he made the marks 13 inches apart.

In total we built five shelves.

7. Once the glue dried, we painted the shelves Dovetail Gray (from Sherwin-Williams) to match the cabinets and desk in the room.

We painted them two shades darker than the walls so that they would subtly stand out from the wall without being too overpowering and taking away from the plants.

8. Next, on the top of each shelf, Brent marked and used a drill to make 3/8 inch holes in the center of each shelf, 6 inches down from the top.

9. To attached the shelves to the wall, Brent started measuring from the center of the wall and screwed five drywall screws 16 inches apart the same distance from the ceiling.

10. Finally, we hung the wall-mounted plant shelves on the wall.

11. Then we added our ceramic pots and faux plants.

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SUPPLIES

• (3) Brick Embossed Hardboard Paneling
• Jigsaw
• Staple Gun
• Gray Caulk
• Large Piece of Cardboard
• Various Colors of Sample Paint (see below)
• Foam Roller
• Paint Pail Liner
• Paintbrush

FYI: This post contains a few affiliate links to products we used to make this project. Gray House Studio does receive commissions for sales from these links but at no extra cost to you. We appreciate you supporting this site. Read our privacy and disclosure policy. You can also easily shop our recommended products here.

TUTORIAL VIDEO

STEPS

1. First, we needed to find our brick embossed hardboard paneling. It turned out the only paneling we could find came in the unattractive combination of red brick and black mortar.

We knew we were going to have to put some work into it to get it to the style we wanted but Brent assured me that if we painted the wall with an entirely new color palette first rather than just painting all the paneling white, that is would drastically change the space into the old industrial loft look we desired.

2. Next, we installed our wall panels. We needed three hardboard panels to cover our wall.

We did this step first so we could paint across all three boards at one time making the paint job look cohesive.

We used a jigsaw to cut around the half bricks on all the panels on the inside sides so the panels fit together like a puzzle.

3. Our goal was to make the wall seamless so you could not tell it was three separate pieces of paneling.

We did our best to line up the bricks as close as possible and then used gray caulk to cover the lines where the boards came together. We used a color similar to the paint we got to paint the mortar.

4. After we had determined what we wanted our wall to look like, we needed to pick out the paint colors that would be in our new color palette.

To do this we used the Sherwin-Williams ColorSnap app to pull the colors from the screen in our inspiration photo and translate them into actual paint colors we could purchase to use to paint our brick wall.

5. Once we had the colors available to us on the app, we had to narrow them down to the ones that would form the best color combination for our faux brick.

There are a lot of options so our formula consisted of choosing two mid-tone colors, two highlight colors and two to three accent colors. We also selected a new lighter color for the mortar.

Our New Color Palette:

• Cavern Clay SW 7701 (midtone)
• Moroccan Brown SW 6060 (midtone)
• Fiery Brown SW 6055 (accent)
• Baguette SW 6123 (accent)
• Urbane Bronze SW 7048 (accent)
• Rare Gray SW 6199 (highlight)
• Dovetail SW 7017 (mortar)
• Kestrel White SW 7516 (whitewash)

We bought sample sizes of the paint because we only needed to use a small amount of each color. It was plenty to get the job done and have some of each color left over for future projects.

6. We started with our two mid-tone colors, Cavern Clay and Moroccan Brown.

We poured the two paint colors on a large piece of cardboard. We chose to use a piece of cardboard because it allowed us plenty of space to roll the paint together and let it mix naturally.

We chose to use a foam roller because we liked the authentic texture it gave the paint when it was rolled across the embossed surface.

7. We completely covered the wall with a light coat of both mid-tone colors and then moved on to our accent colors.

For the accent colors we did not cover the entire wall but instead concentrated them to certain areas. We chose to use a bright yellow (Baguette), dark brown (Fiery Brown) and dark gray (Urbane Bronze) for our accent colors.

For this step we got a new foam roller so the lighter color did not get muddied down and poured our paint on a clean-ish section of our cardboard.

Next, we applied our highlight color. We applied it to the wall liberally but if it looked too overpowering in areas, we went back and rolled in more of our mid-tones to tone it back down. We didn’t want any particular section to stand out.

For our highlight color, we used Rare Gray.

8. We started the whole process by painting the black mortar a gray color, Dovetail.

But we didn’t mention this as the first step because this actually created double work for us because once we rolled in the other colors, stray paint got into this area.

So we had to come back and touch up the mortar again.

If we were to do this again we would wait until the very end to paint over the black mortar.

Then we could just take the paintbrush and cover this area once. But once we touched up the mortar color, it really changed and cleaned up the look of the brick paneling.

9. You could stop there but we wanted to replicate an old industrial loft wall.

Our vision was to have it appear as if the entire wall was painted white but time has passed and now the paint is wearing off.

To achieve this look we whitewashed sections of our brick wall with various shades of white paint.

To begin this process we significantly watered down our Kestel White paint in a paint pail liner. We used a paintbrush to lightly brush on the paint in a pattern similar to our inspiration photo.

With the white paint being very light we could see our entire pattern and then come back with more opaque paint to fill it in. We left some areas untouched on purpose so that these areas would look like the really worn and exposed brick.

10. Next, we used our paintbrush and less diluted white paint to cover the parts of the pattern that had more paint and less exposed brick showing through.

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